THE LASH GROWTH CYCLE + WHY SOME PEOPLE SEE FASTER GROWTH THAN OTHERS

How does lash growth actually work? Why does the serum work quicker for some and slower for others? And how does our Lash & Brow Enhancing Serum work with the natural lash cycle? We’re answering all these questions in today’s blog!

Before choosing a lash serum, it’s important to understand ingredient safety — including why some formulas rely on prostaglandin analogs. See how prostaglandin-free lash serums compare and why formulation matters.

LASH BIOLOGY 101

Most of us have 90 – 160 lashes on the upper lash line, distributed among five to six rows. The lower lash line can have up to 80 eyelashes.

Each eyelash is made up of a hair shaft (the lash you see), a root beneath the skin, and a bulb where the new hair begins growing. The bulb is connected to the dermal papilla (blood supply) which nourishes the lashes so they can grow.

Although we love lashes for their eye-framing drama, they also have a purely functional purpose. Eyelashes are extra sensitive to touch, and when an object or particle touches them, they send automatic signals to the brain to close the eye. Lashes also help filter sunlight and shield the eyes from any unwanted debris or sweat.

Fun fact: eyelashes are the most pigmented of all human hair, which is why they don’t turn grey with age (unlike the hair on our head!)

The Eyelash Growth Cycle Explained

Eyelashes go through three distinct phases in their growth cycle: Anagen (active growth), Catagen (transition), and Telogen (resting). The complete cycle can take anywhere from four to eleven months to complete.

Keep reading for how the phases work, our lash serum’s role in each phase, and how your time-to-results can change depending on where you are in the cycle when you start your serum.

Anagen (Active Growth) Phase

In this phase, the hair is attached to the dermal papilla (blood supply) which ‘feeds’ the lash and helps it grow. About 35-40% of the upper lashes (and 15% of lower lashes) will be in the growth phase at one time – this ensures you don’t lose all your lashes at once when the falling-out phase starts.

The Anagen phase lasts for 4 – 10 weeks, where lashes will grow at a rate of 0.12 to 0.14 mm per day. The longer an eyelash stays in the growth phase, the longer it will grow.

This is where Plume comes in – Our serum aims to support the duration of this particular lash phase, allowing lashes to appear denser and fuller.

Keep in mind, only 40% of your lashes may be in this phase at one time, so when you start a lash serum, you’ll likely see increased length/new lashes on a portion of your lashes, while the other 60% cycle through the other phases.

Catagen (Transition) Phase

In this phase, the hair follicle shrinks, detaches from the blood supply, and the eyelash stops growing. Named the ‘transition phase’, lashes maintain length gained from the Anagen phase while waiting for the next phase. This stage lasts for 2 – 3 weeks.

If an eyelash unnaturally falls out (or is pulled out) during this phase, that follicle stays empty while it completes this phase and moves on to Telogen. That means you’ll have an empty spot until that follicle reaches the Anagen phase again.

Our serum’s role in this phase: Length is one thing, but fullness is another. It’s essential to keep lashes strong and healthy so that they don’t fall out during this stage. Our serum helps maintain stronger, more resilient lashes, supporting a fuller lash line over time.

Telogen (Resting & Shedding) Phase

In this phase, lashes sit dormant while a new hair begins forming within the follicle and the existing lash sheds naturally. This stage lasts for 3 to 4 months before the eyelash falls out and re-enters the active growth phase. Approximately 50% of eyelashes will be in this phase at one time.

Our lash serum supports the natural progression of this phase, helping lashes return to the growth cycle efficiently.

Why Does the Serum Work Faster for Some People?

The effectiveness of any lash serum depends on where your lashes are in their natural cycle when you begin using it. While roughly 35–40% of lashes may be actively growing, the remaining lashes are transitioning or resting.

This means results can appear uneven at first — with some lashes responding quickly while others take several weeks to cycle back into growth.

As a result, many people notice improved fullness before seeing increased length. With consistent use, more lashes enter the growth phase over time, creating visible improvements across the entire lash line.

Lash Growth as You Age

As we age, the lash cycle slows and regeneration takes longer. Lashes may also become drier and more fragile. Consistent conditioning and support can help maintain the appearance of fuller, healthier lashes over time.

A Bonus Effect of Our Serum

Coleus Forskohlii Root Oil is known to support the appearance of darker, more defined lashes — enhancing overall lash visibility.

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Thanks for tuning into our blog. The key takeaway: timing matters, and consistency is essential for seeing results. If you have any questions, reach out anytime. 

One ingredient class shortcuts this natural growth cycle: prostaglandin analogs. They drive faster results but carry documented side effects — see what makes a lash serum genuinely hormone-free.